| Welcome
to
the PHONOPREAMPS.COM  FAQ Page  Frequently Asked Questions Warranty and Return Info About Phonopreamps.com Contact Us |
Is
it in stock? What domestic shipping method is used? When
will I have it?
If we're advertising it, we stock it. The only exceptions are certain low demand replacement styli, which we stock in small quantities and reorder as needed. If this happens, we'll email you with an ETA. Buyers will receive shipping confirmation from Paypal or Propay, and shipping confirmation from Paypal, as well as directly from us. We use First Class or Priority Mail for all domestic shipping aside from some of the larger items found on the Vintage Component Page; the shipping address you provide us should account for this. We will not absorb the reshipping costs associated with packages which must be resent because a USPS-undeliverable address was provided by the buyer. Orders generally ship every business day, and most shipments arrive in less than a week. Use the email link near the bottom of this page if you need to contact us about your order. (top)
Can I track my package enroute?
Sometimes. Despite wording indicating otherwise, the "tracking" numbers Paypal sends in shipping confirmation emails to our domestic customers are intended to allow delivery confirmation, not enroute tracking. Per the USPS website regarding delivery confirmation numbers:
I'm outside the USA. What should I know
about buying your products? Will it work on my voltage?
If we're advertising it, we stock it. The only exceptions are certain low demand replacement styli, which we stock in small quantities and reorder as needed. If this happens, we'll email you with an ETA. Buyers will receive shipping confirmation from Paypal or Propay, and shipping confirmation from Paypal, as well as directly from us. We use First Class or Priority Mail for all domestic shipping aside from some of the larger items found on the Vintage Component Page; the shipping address you provide us should account for this. We will not absorb the reshipping costs associated with packages which must be resent because a USPS-undeliverable address was provided by the buyer. Orders generally ship every business day, and most shipments arrive in less than a week. Use the email link near the bottom of this page if you need to contact us about your order. (top)
Can I track my package enroute?
Sometimes. Despite wording indicating otherwise, the "tracking" numbers Paypal sends in shipping confirmation emails to our domestic customers are intended to allow delivery confirmation, not enroute tracking. Per the USPS website regarding delivery confirmation numbers:
Note: This service does not provide tracking information, it will not provide updated scan information as the item is enroute. It will only provide the delivery or attempted delivery information. If there is no scan event information available for your mailing, you will receive a message similar to one of the following:
- "No information is available for this item. Please contact the sender."
- "There is no record of that item. If it was mailed recently, information may not yet be available. Please try again later."
This does not mean that the item has not been mailed. It just means that it has not been scanned in as having been delivered.
USPS does not guarantee enroute tracking availability for mail classes other than Express Mail. Nonetheless it's worth checking your label number occasionally, because acceptance info and other enroute scan data is now being posted online as USPS enhances its abilities. Vintage component page items sent via UPS are trackable enroute. (top)Orders
sent outside the USA (including to
Canada) may require the payment of VAT, import duties and any
other
taxes the destination country sees fit to charge upon delivery; these
are the buyer's responsibility and are NOT included in what we charge
for the product or shipping. Some small
items such as cartridges, styli and hubs may fall below the
minimum amount eligible for such tariffs. USPS
First Class or
Priority Mail shipping is used depending on the item. These
are not
normally
trackable methods, although this varies from country to country;
however the customs tag number we provide via email does allow
acceptance
confirmation (time and place of mailing via the USPS website). Some
federal postal systems (EU countries in particular) contract
out international
package deliveries and customs collection
to a third party (Chronopost, DHL etc), and when this happens the
recepient may be charged an additional brokerage fee. We reserve the
right to drop-ship some items directly from TCC in Taiwan using EMS. We
do this very selectively, mostly to Far East destinations, but also to
countries where delivery is problematic and EMS tracking can provide
some
protection against pilfering or loss. Italy, Portugal, Brazil, and
Mexico are permanently on our list of countries in this category;
TC-754s, TC-760LCs, TC-770LCs, TC-778s and TC-720s sent to these
destinations
normally drop-ship from Taiwan.
All preamps we sell include power supplies except the battery powered TC-450 ( for which an AC adaptor is optional) . Plug styles and voltages we stock are shown below; we use the guide available here to determine voltage and plug sent. You may need to obtain a plug adaptor to match your local mains plug style. This applies in particular to RSA/NZ/Australia buyers who will receive either the UK plug style "G" or EU pluge style "C" shown below (dependent on model ordered)
All preamps we sell include power supplies except the battery powered TC-450 ( for which an AC adaptor is optional) . Plug styles and voltages we stock are shown below; we use the guide available here to determine voltage and plug sent. You may need to obtain a plug adaptor to match your local mains plug style. This applies in particular to RSA/NZ/Australia buyers who will receive either the UK plug style "G" or EU pluge style "C" shown below (dependent on model ordered)
|
100/110/120VAC Type A  This is the plug style used in the USA, Canada, Mexico and Japan. . |
220/230/240VAC EU Type C
220/230/240VAC UK Type G
(not available for TC-400G/L; EU
plug will be sent instead)
 |
What does a phono preamp do, and why would I need one?
The output from a magnetic cartridge installed in a good quality turntable is MUCH lower than that provided by line level sources like CD or tape, and requires an additional stage of amplification. The recording process used to create records also adds equalization which must be removed during playback to restore proper tonal balance. Most older receivers and amps included an additional gain and RIAA re-equalizer stage, allowing direct connection of a turntable. Whether your equipment has this is easy to determine; look for PHONO on your source selector switch, and jacks labeled PHONO on the rear. Newer stereo equipment made after 1990 often has NO phono input; this is true of most mini-systems and home theatre units, as well as many stereo receivers and amps. Manufacturers seeking to lower production costs began leaving out the phono input because records and turntables are supposedly obsolete in today's world dominated by CDs and DVDs. In order to connect a turntable to these stereos, you need to first pass the signal thru an external RIAA phono preamp to bump the level and fix the equalization. This also applies if you're connecting a turntable to a computer sound card's line input so you can make CD-Rs from LPs; again, a phono preamp is needed to first add gain and tonal correction. We include the needed plug adaptor for computer use. All of our preamps connect to line inputs only; AUX, CD, MD, DAT, TAPE IN, TAPE MON all will work fine. A/V line inputs also can be used (simply ignore the video jack); these include TV, VCR, DVD, LINE etc. Click on the diagram below to view a larger version.
Do NOT use
an RIAA phono preamp with other sources like iPods, MP3
players etc; doing this
guarantees overloading and massive distortion.
Only turntables require the 40dB gain and re-equalization a phono
preamp provides. Our TC-780LC
and TC-780i
line preamp models are
designed specifically for use with portable audio devices, TV audio and
other
line level sources which may need boosting to better match the inputs
on your stereo or mobile audio system.
A few recent entry level turntables sold by Aiwa, RCA, Sony and others have included internal phono preamps so they can connect directly to a line input. This is a really BAD idea; generally such tables supply the bare minimum in every respect, including preamp signal to noise ratio (often as low as 40-45dB). By comparison, our best preamp models feature 80-85dB S/N. If you're unsure whether you have one of these tables, check your user manual; it'll also tell you how to switch off or bypass the internal preamp so you can use a better external one instead. Connecting two phono preamps in series results in clipping and distortion; never plug a preamped turntable into our product, or our product into a phono input on a stereo. (top)
A few recent entry level turntables sold by Aiwa, RCA, Sony and others have included internal phono preamps so they can connect directly to a line input. This is a really BAD idea; generally such tables supply the bare minimum in every respect, including preamp signal to noise ratio (often as low as 40-45dB). By comparison, our best preamp models feature 80-85dB S/N. If you're unsure whether you have one of these tables, check your user manual; it'll also tell you how to switch off or bypass the internal preamp so you can use a better external one instead. Connecting two phono preamps in series results in clipping and distortion; never plug a preamped turntable into our product, or our product into a phono input on a stereo. (top)
Who makes the preamps Phonopreamps.com
sells?
The preamps and switchers we carry are made in Taiwan by Translink Cables and Connectors, also doing business there as Technolink Enterprise Co. Some models we sell are labeled TCC, while others bear the TEC logo. All come from the same production facility and receive the same rigorous quality control screening. Every preamp is individually tested for power and proper audio at the factory before being shipped. We interact with our friends there on a near-daily basis, and are deeply involved in product design and production of the models we sell. Current models inspired by Phonopreamps.com include the TC-450, the TC-754, the TC-778 and the TC-760LC. TCC/TEC has produced switchers and preamps for a number of well-known brands, including Recoton, Acoustic Research and MCM. Beware of copy-cat products being sold on the internet and in Europe; at least two models (the TC-400 and TC-750) have been shamelessly copied by a mainland China knockoff producer. This might qualify as a compliment of sorts, if the copies weren't so shoddy...
The preamps and switchers we carry are made in Taiwan by Translink Cables and Connectors, also doing business there as Technolink Enterprise Co. Some models we sell are labeled TCC, while others bear the TEC logo. All come from the same production facility and receive the same rigorous quality control screening. Every preamp is individually tested for power and proper audio at the factory before being shipped. We interact with our friends there on a near-daily basis, and are deeply involved in product design and production of the models we sell. Current models inspired by Phonopreamps.com include the TC-450, the TC-754, the TC-778 and the TC-760LC. TCC/TEC has produced switchers and preamps for a number of well-known brands, including Recoton, Acoustic Research and MCM. Beware of copy-cat products being sold on the internet and in Europe; at least two models (the TC-400 and TC-750) have been shamelessly copied by a mainland China knockoff producer. This might qualify as a compliment of sorts, if the copies weren't so shoddy...
Because
of
limitations in the LP recording process, an equalization curve must be
applied to the music or other sonic content prior to it being cut onto
vinyl, so as to reduce backround noise and sibilance. Removing this
equalization affect (called the RIAA curve) and restoring the
music's original frequency response curve during playback is an
important part of the phono preamp's job and differentiates it from
other preamps used for microphones and musical instruments, which
provide gain but no other modification of the original sound quality.
Proper RIAA re-equalization during playback is a must in faithfully
producing the original musical content without coloration or
distortion.
All of our phono preamp models include it.
(top)
Which phono preamp is best for me?
Obviously, the more money you invest, the better the performance and sound quality of the preamp you buy will be. Signal-to-noise ratio is the most important criteria; the higher the number, the lower the backround hiss level will be. This may not be particularly crucial if the overall playback system's quality is low (a cheap minisystem or sound card, for instance; both may generate enough hiss in their own right to obscure any added by the preamp), but matters a great deal when comparing LP fidelity to other sources like CD on a good playback system. Ability to faithfully correct RIAA equalization is another important sonic quality; higher-priced products do it better. Additional features like mike inputs or a power switch may be useful to one user but not to the next; buy only what you need. The TC-750 is our most popular model and provides super performance for a median price. An output level control is useful when connecting to a sound card, and we recommend the TC-750LC to buyers primarily interested in burning records to CD-R or MP3 files. (top)
Why is there no power switch on most phono preamps? Why are there no AC cords on the ones Phonopreamps.com sells?
It's a common belief among audiophiles that even modern amplifiers do not sound their best when cold; a preamp which is always powered requires no warmup period. Phono preamps as a class draw almost no electricity whether in use or idle, so providing a means of depowering them isn't an economic issue. Many of ours have a power indicator so you can tell when they're plugged in, but again this is more of a convenience than a needed feature. Many stereo receivers and amps have a switched AC outlet on their rear which you can plug the preamp into if you want it depowered when not in use. Eliminating the AC cord and moving the power supply out of the preamp itself by utilizing an AC adaptor (commonly called a "wall wart" in the electronics business) has three major advantages;
A)Separating the power supply physically from the preamp circuitry reduces circuit and AC noise, and improves S/N ratio.
B)The power supply can be replaced in the event of lightning or surge damage without having to replace the entire preamp.
C)The preamp can be powered by any clean source capable of generating the proper DC voltage, including batteries or the power supply in an existing piece of equipment, such as a mixer or console used by studios or DJs. Also, the preamp can be used anywhere in the world by simply obtaining a replacement AC adaptor made for the local mains voltage (120VAC, 220VAC, 240VAC,etc) at Radio Shack or its local equivalent. (top)
What do I do with the ground wire on my turntable?
Most (but far from all) turntables have a ground wire connected internally to the chassis or frame and the metal tonearm tube to provide shielding and hum reduction. Failure to connect the ground wire to an appropriate ground on your stereo or computer will result in 60 cycle hum (often sufficient in level to obscure the music). On some turntables (particularly Technics) this wire may be removeable via a screw-type terminal or plug-in connector; be sure to examine the rear of your table before assuming it does not require a ground wire. There ARE some turntables which utilise the RCA cable's shield to provide the chassis ground connection, so if no ground wire is present, none may in fact be needed; but always look to make sure it hasn't been amputated! On older amps and receivers having a built-in preamp, the ground point to which the turntable ground wire attaches is provided and marked as such (usually right near the phono jacks). Minisystems and home theatre units often have an antenna terminal assembly including an AM ground screw or terminal; this can sometimes be used for the turntable ground wire. All of our preamps have a ground wire terminal; this is by far the best place to connect the ground wire, especially if using with a computer sound card (the metal rear panel of the computer being the alternative). (top)
What's the difference between moving magnet and moving coil cartridges
(and which do I have?) What's a ceramic cartridge?
Moving magnet (MM) cartridges are the common variety, characterized by high output impedence (typically 47k ohms) and a removeable, replaceable stylus (what many people refer to as a needle); these are the kind most phono preamps work with. Moving coil (MC) cartridges on the other hand, are a rarified breed mostly popular with audiophiles. They rarely have replaceable styli, and can cost more than than many of us spend for our entire stereo systems. If you have a moving coil cartridge, chances are you know it; you do not end up owning one of these accidentally or by purchasing a second-hand turntable at the flea market. They are low impedance devices (anywhere from 10 to 1000 ohms); a step-up transformer or "pre-preamp" must be inserted between the cartridge and an existing MM phono preamp. We do NOT sell such add-ons; instead our product line includes two switch-selectable MM or MC preamps (our TC-760 and TC-760LC models) which connect to a line input, just as our MM-only preamps do. Buying one of these two models covers all possibilities if you are unsure whether your cartridge is MM or MC, and also allows you to switch types down the road should you choose.
Ceramic cartridges are the cheap, primitive type found on school, kiddy and fold-up record players, as well as the console stereos which were common before component stereo came along. Usually they have a "flip-over" needle (often LP on one side, 78 on the other) and horrendous fidelity. Ceramic cartridge tables generally do not connect to a component stereo as they usually have built-in amplifiers and speakers, or are part of a console or compact (today's compacts often are designed to look like component stereo equipment, and are referred to as minisystems). If you do own a component type ceramic turntable (likely a record changer made in the sixties), it should be connected to a line input such as AUX, not to a mag phono input. Do not try to use one of these with a phono preamp; the result will be overdriving and distortion. Most of the "nostalgia" record players found online and on the home shopping channels use ceramic cartridges; not only do they provide the look and the sound quality of the '50s, they give you the record wear too! One play with a ceramic cartridge will ruin a record for good, so never lend your LPs out... (top)
How do I play or record from 78rpm records?
Several companies make outrageously expensive 78 turntables for audiophiles; these are beyond consideration for someone with a casual interest in archiving 78s to CD-R or MP3. As a practical matter, most will choose one of the two reasonably inexpensive routes that follow (both kinds of record changer mentioned below are easily found at tag sales and flea markets);
A) Locate a ceramic cartridge record changer that has 78 on the speed selector (generally the cartridge will have a flip-over needle, with LP on one side and 78 on the other); hook it to a line level input on your stereo or sound card (no preamp required), and have at it... fidelity isn't an issue here, but remember most 78s have no lead-in groove, so you'll have to cue up the record by hand; and keep a quarter handy, you'll probably need it to weigh the arm enough so it won't skip. Expect the results to resemble what you hear listening thru a telephone.
B) Locate a magnetic cartridge record changer that has 78 on the speed selector. Look for the following makes; Dual, Elac, Miracord, BSR, Collaro, Garrard, PE (these were also sold under the Impro label). Many other brand names appeared on tables made by these companies (Realistic, KLH and Fisher are good examples), so keep an open mind. A few really old (50-60s) single-play belt drive turntable models (notibly Thorens) may have 78 as well. You'll then need to obtain a cartridge for which a 78 stylus is still available; we sell Audio Technica cartridges with 78 styli to fit them (CLICK HERE for a look at these). NEVER try to play a 78 with an LP stylus; you'll ruin both the record and the stylus. Tracking force (normally somewhere in the 1-4 gram range when playing LPs) will need to beset for 5-7 grams for reliable tracking of 78s. This option WILL require the use of a phono preamp unless your stereo has one built in. Fidelity will be only as good as a 78 is capable of providing (but far superior to the ceramic option). Remember that your typical phono preamp is mindlessly applying RIAA re-equalization in error to what you'll be hearing, since 78s had no or only rudimentary equalization applied during production. Our TC-778 preamp provides switchable RIAA/78 equalization to deal with this issue. The more sophisticated CD burning software packages include filters and enhancements to "fix" 78 sound quality; our advice is don't expect much. (top)
How do I copy records onto CD-Rs?
Mechanically, no problem. Connect your turntable to the input on any of our preamps, and the preamp's output to the line input on your computer sound card or laptop (all of our preamps come with the required connectors). Your burner software does the rest. There are tons of resources on LP to CD-R and MP3 recording on the web; for one such page, GO HERE. A Google search combining the keywords "CD-R burning", "MP3" and "LP" will yield plenty more like it. (top)
How do I use the NAB hub adaptors you sell on my reel-to-reel? What do they fit?
Our TC-503 NAB hub adaptors now have their own help page; click HERE. (top)
Which phono preamp is best for me?
Obviously, the more money you invest, the better the performance and sound quality of the preamp you buy will be. Signal-to-noise ratio is the most important criteria; the higher the number, the lower the backround hiss level will be. This may not be particularly crucial if the overall playback system's quality is low (a cheap minisystem or sound card, for instance; both may generate enough hiss in their own right to obscure any added by the preamp), but matters a great deal when comparing LP fidelity to other sources like CD on a good playback system. Ability to faithfully correct RIAA equalization is another important sonic quality; higher-priced products do it better. Additional features like mike inputs or a power switch may be useful to one user but not to the next; buy only what you need. The TC-750 is our most popular model and provides super performance for a median price. An output level control is useful when connecting to a sound card, and we recommend the TC-750LC to buyers primarily interested in burning records to CD-R or MP3 files. (top)
Why is there no power switch on most phono preamps? Why are there no AC cords on the ones Phonopreamps.com sells?
It's a common belief among audiophiles that even modern amplifiers do not sound their best when cold; a preamp which is always powered requires no warmup period. Phono preamps as a class draw almost no electricity whether in use or idle, so providing a means of depowering them isn't an economic issue. Many of ours have a power indicator so you can tell when they're plugged in, but again this is more of a convenience than a needed feature. Many stereo receivers and amps have a switched AC outlet on their rear which you can plug the preamp into if you want it depowered when not in use. Eliminating the AC cord and moving the power supply out of the preamp itself by utilizing an AC adaptor (commonly called a "wall wart" in the electronics business) has three major advantages;
A)Separating the power supply physically from the preamp circuitry reduces circuit and AC noise, and improves S/N ratio.
B)The power supply can be replaced in the event of lightning or surge damage without having to replace the entire preamp.
C)The preamp can be powered by any clean source capable of generating the proper DC voltage, including batteries or the power supply in an existing piece of equipment, such as a mixer or console used by studios or DJs. Also, the preamp can be used anywhere in the world by simply obtaining a replacement AC adaptor made for the local mains voltage (120VAC, 220VAC, 240VAC,etc) at Radio Shack or its local equivalent. (top)
What do I do with the ground wire on my turntable?
Most (but far from all) turntables have a ground wire connected internally to the chassis or frame and the metal tonearm tube to provide shielding and hum reduction. Failure to connect the ground wire to an appropriate ground on your stereo or computer will result in 60 cycle hum (often sufficient in level to obscure the music). On some turntables (particularly Technics) this wire may be removeable via a screw-type terminal or plug-in connector; be sure to examine the rear of your table before assuming it does not require a ground wire. There ARE some turntables which utilise the RCA cable's shield to provide the chassis ground connection, so if no ground wire is present, none may in fact be needed; but always look to make sure it hasn't been amputated! On older amps and receivers having a built-in preamp, the ground point to which the turntable ground wire attaches is provided and marked as such (usually right near the phono jacks). Minisystems and home theatre units often have an antenna terminal assembly including an AM ground screw or terminal; this can sometimes be used for the turntable ground wire. All of our preamps have a ground wire terminal; this is by far the best place to connect the ground wire, especially if using with a computer sound card (the metal rear panel of the computer being the alternative). (top)
What's the difference between moving magnet and moving coil cartridges
(and which do I have?) What's a ceramic cartridge?
Moving magnet (MM) cartridges are the common variety, characterized by high output impedence (typically 47k ohms) and a removeable, replaceable stylus (what many people refer to as a needle); these are the kind most phono preamps work with. Moving coil (MC) cartridges on the other hand, are a rarified breed mostly popular with audiophiles. They rarely have replaceable styli, and can cost more than than many of us spend for our entire stereo systems. If you have a moving coil cartridge, chances are you know it; you do not end up owning one of these accidentally or by purchasing a second-hand turntable at the flea market. They are low impedance devices (anywhere from 10 to 1000 ohms); a step-up transformer or "pre-preamp" must be inserted between the cartridge and an existing MM phono preamp. We do NOT sell such add-ons; instead our product line includes two switch-selectable MM or MC preamps (our TC-760 and TC-760LC models) which connect to a line input, just as our MM-only preamps do. Buying one of these two models covers all possibilities if you are unsure whether your cartridge is MM or MC, and also allows you to switch types down the road should you choose.
Ceramic cartridges are the cheap, primitive type found on school, kiddy and fold-up record players, as well as the console stereos which were common before component stereo came along. Usually they have a "flip-over" needle (often LP on one side, 78 on the other) and horrendous fidelity. Ceramic cartridge tables generally do not connect to a component stereo as they usually have built-in amplifiers and speakers, or are part of a console or compact (today's compacts often are designed to look like component stereo equipment, and are referred to as minisystems). If you do own a component type ceramic turntable (likely a record changer made in the sixties), it should be connected to a line input such as AUX, not to a mag phono input. Do not try to use one of these with a phono preamp; the result will be overdriving and distortion. Most of the "nostalgia" record players found online and on the home shopping channels use ceramic cartridges; not only do they provide the look and the sound quality of the '50s, they give you the record wear too! One play with a ceramic cartridge will ruin a record for good, so never lend your LPs out... (top)
How do I play or record from 78rpm records?
Several companies make outrageously expensive 78 turntables for audiophiles; these are beyond consideration for someone with a casual interest in archiving 78s to CD-R or MP3. As a practical matter, most will choose one of the two reasonably inexpensive routes that follow (both kinds of record changer mentioned below are easily found at tag sales and flea markets);
A) Locate a ceramic cartridge record changer that has 78 on the speed selector (generally the cartridge will have a flip-over needle, with LP on one side and 78 on the other); hook it to a line level input on your stereo or sound card (no preamp required), and have at it... fidelity isn't an issue here, but remember most 78s have no lead-in groove, so you'll have to cue up the record by hand; and keep a quarter handy, you'll probably need it to weigh the arm enough so it won't skip. Expect the results to resemble what you hear listening thru a telephone.
B) Locate a magnetic cartridge record changer that has 78 on the speed selector. Look for the following makes; Dual, Elac, Miracord, BSR, Collaro, Garrard, PE (these were also sold under the Impro label). Many other brand names appeared on tables made by these companies (Realistic, KLH and Fisher are good examples), so keep an open mind. A few really old (50-60s) single-play belt drive turntable models (notibly Thorens) may have 78 as well. You'll then need to obtain a cartridge for which a 78 stylus is still available; we sell Audio Technica cartridges with 78 styli to fit them (CLICK HERE for a look at these). NEVER try to play a 78 with an LP stylus; you'll ruin both the record and the stylus. Tracking force (normally somewhere in the 1-4 gram range when playing LPs) will need to beset for 5-7 grams for reliable tracking of 78s. This option WILL require the use of a phono preamp unless your stereo has one built in. Fidelity will be only as good as a 78 is capable of providing (but far superior to the ceramic option). Remember that your typical phono preamp is mindlessly applying RIAA re-equalization in error to what you'll be hearing, since 78s had no or only rudimentary equalization applied during production. Our TC-778 preamp provides switchable RIAA/78 equalization to deal with this issue. The more sophisticated CD burning software packages include filters and enhancements to "fix" 78 sound quality; our advice is don't expect much. (top)
How do I copy records onto CD-Rs?
Mechanically, no problem. Connect your turntable to the input on any of our preamps, and the preamp's output to the line input on your computer sound card or laptop (all of our preamps come with the required connectors). Your burner software does the rest. There are tons of resources on LP to CD-R and MP3 recording on the web; for one such page, GO HERE. A Google search combining the keywords "CD-R burning", "MP3" and "LP" will yield plenty more like it. (top)
How do I use the NAB hub adaptors you sell on my reel-to-reel? What do they fit?
Our TC-503 NAB hub adaptors now have their own help page; click HERE. (top)
Warranty
Info and Returns
Only product
which is in as-new condition (this includes the manufacturer's
packaging) is accepted back for refund;
there is a 20% restocking fee in such cases, and items must be
returned within thirty days of purchase. We do not require that an R/A
be obtained first, but do request that you notify us before returning
an item and ask that you include copies of the invoice and any email
correspondence. Most
of the products we sell carry a one year defective exchange or repair
warranty
from us. Exceptions are the TC-400G/L, TC-750 and TC-750LC models
which carry a
limited lifetime defective exchange warranty to the original purchaser.
All AC
adaptors (including
the ones supplied with the TC-400/750/750LC models) are
warranteed
against failure or defects for sixty days; most
adaptor
failures result from power surge or lightning exposure, not from age or
product defect. We stock
replacements for
all AC adaptors supplied with the products we sell (see above regarding
AC plug styles). Batteries (when included) are promotional quality and
are provided by the
manufacturer without warranty as a courtesy. We pass
them along so you can use your purchase immediately upon receipt, but
we recommend you obtain name brand (Energizer, Varta, Duracell etc)
replacements to insure reliable continued use. Our product
warranty covers defects in manufacture and product failure; it does not
cover physical breakage or other abuse (stylus and cartridge buyers
take note; we hand inspect every item before shipment). Many
apparent
product defects or failures are often actually hookup or inappropriate
usage issues
which can be resolved simply by emailing
us....
The address for
warranty returns
(preferably with original packaging and all supplied accessories included) is;
(preferably with original packaging and all supplied accessories included) is;
Phonopreamps.com
P.O. Box 1356
Westfield, Ma.
01086-1356
Please remember to include copies of the invoice and any relevant email correspondence.
P.O. Box 1356
Westfield, Ma.
01086-1356
Please remember to include copies of the invoice and any relevant email correspondence.
About Us
Phonopreamps.com
and
its subsidiary companies have been in the retail audio/video sales and
service business for nearly thirty years. Today
we
are strictly an online business, and do not offer local product pickup
or a retail location, nor do we do business on the telephone.
We're happy to answer your technical questions and
product inquiries via email, usually within 24 hours. Contact
us any time at info@phonopreamps.com
.